Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Karma??

Sunday night is when it all started. My mind was racing and I knew the forecast for this week. My pathetic self centeredness, better known as "I", needed to get a ride to Lower Trestles. After talking to my parents and couple of friends I was shut down but still determined to hitch a ride. As Monday morning hit I glared at the computer screen watching the Lowers cam show beautiful A-frames continuously roll in one after another. Out of no where a friend IMs me and asks what I'm doing today. After a brief conversation I was running to pack. I found my ride and was headed to Lower Trestles. As she drove up I quickly loaded my gear into her car and we were off. It was an agonizing drive due to my anxiety and visions of perfection. We exited the 5 fwy and were accompanied by half of Orange County. As I knew my location and destination my "driver" did not. She was just along for the adventure and happy to be with me. We finally reached the sand and I dropped my pack and surfboard and quickly examined the waves and crowd. Trying to not rush putting my wetsuit and thin layer of sunscreen on my cancer riden nose, I had totally forgot how I had gotten to were I was and whom I was with. My overjoyed self was filled with excitement and pure stoke. It was a clear slightly breezy late morning, the water was crystal and the suns energy was pumping through my veins. After a 3 hour plus session I was deprived, perplexed, and sulking in the sand. My mind my scrambled for I was envisioning a perfect day, but now it had turned into a anger driven afternoon. As I stripped off my wetsuit and threw on my trunks I laid next to a beautiful girl wondering how my wonderfully planned day had turned into a depressing slump of an afternoon. Eating a sandwich and chatting with the girl that laid beside me I tried to turn my negativity into positive vibes by trying to find the good in this god blessed beautiful day. My head cleared and I thought another hour would not hurt my chances of bettering my day. The day was growing old and I was beginning to get the chills. I exited the water in a tad bit happier mood but i was still greatly disappointed with self. I felt like I had been relinquished of all my confidence. As my girl and I drove home I wondered if by letting my selfish desires get in the way of having a nice day with a friend ruined what the day really could of lived up to. I ruined my self by my self and all in all, I learned not to take friends willing to put up with me for granted and just go with the flow.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Thursday, August 6, 2009

Put to an End

As the adventure, as some may say vacation, started last saturday it has now come to a hault in San Jose. As we are housed in a family freinds home, are car is dead and now it is time to relax and revitalize. Many discoveries have been made and footprints left but I would not change our situation. I shall be back with more words.

Sunday, July 5, 2009


It came and it went, and for years it has done so. My mixed feelings towards the celebration of our countries Independence, made me wonder why we celebrate with booming explosions of color. It does not remind us of the men that fought to free us from Britain, but only to scare animals and little children and force another money spending holiday. I do not write these words with my anger but with my curiosity.

Over the unnatural course of my weekend, I ended up surfing Lower Trestles all three of the days. Finding out that I am only an average person surrounded by more average persons. Inside, I feel as if I am better than many ,but in reality my thoughts have misguided me. Performing well is what I aim for, but as i cease to do so my intensity and anger level rise. As my wise friend puts me in my place, I sit back for a while and think. No one cares how well I surf or skateboard and in the end it will not matter. As the next two days came and went I focused on what my friend said, trying to have a different style and attitude in the water and on land. I know I will continue to perfect and evolve but I know I can not do it alone.

Thursday, June 25, 2009

The Life of a Day

Like people or dogs, each day is unique and has its own personality quirks which can easily be seen if you look closely. But there are so few days as compared to people, not to mention dogs, that it would be surprising if a day were not a hundred times more interesting than most people. But usually they just pass, mostly unnoticed, unless they are wildly nice, like autumn ones full of red maple trees and hazy sunlight, or if they are grimly awful ones in a winter blizzard that kills the lost traveler and bunches of cattle. For some reason we like to see days pass, even though most of us claim we don’t want to reach our last one for a long time. We examine each day before us with barely a glance and say, no, this isn’t one I’ve been looking for, and wait in a bored sort of way for the next, when, we are convinced, our lives will start for real. Meanwhile, this day is going by perfectly well-adjusted, as some days are, with the breeze scented with a perfume made from the mixture of fallen apples, corn stubble, dry oak leaves, and the faint odor of last night’s meandering skunk.

~Tom Hennen ~

Friday, June 19, 2009


MR. SIR

In Between

As i have drifted in the past month i am revitalized. Surfing and getting back in to my normal state of being i'm ready for summer. I am presented with a detour though, summer school. But as I will make the best of it, I hope I do not become lackadaisical and finish strong.
BE POSITIVE.